What to do in Tbilisi, Georgia

Tbilisi, the capital of Georgia, was founded in the 5th century AD along the banks of the Kura river. It is a real melting pot of a city with a long and, at times, complicated history. The subject of multiple occupations from Persian to Russian, it was a stopping point along the illustrious silk road. Nowadays, it is becoming a very attractive destination for tourists. But what is there to do in Tbilisi? Is it worth the trip?

My response to this is a resounding YES! Tbilisi contains everything from sulphur baths, Orthodox churches, modern art museums, flea markets, charming courtyards and cobblestone streets with colourful street art. This all contrasts with modern glass facades and soviet era buildings.

And I’ve not even mentioned the delicious food and drinks yet! Did you know that Georgia is the oldest wine region in the world?

There is a friendly and artsy vibe to Tbilisi which makes it feel wonderfully bohemian and a great introduction to Georgia, the Caucasus, or even just as a city break.

Let’s go to Georgia!

When you tell friends, family or co-workers that you’re going to Georgia, you might find, annoyingly, that you have to clarify that you’re going to Georgia the country and not Georgia the American state. I think this shows how Georgia (the country!) may have been overlooked in the past. Now, however, people are beginning to realise that Georgia, albeit small, is a vibrant, friendly country and a real up-and-coming destination.

It’s a fairly painless 5 hour flight from London to the capital of Georgia, Tbilisi. This is often the start of a longer travel itinerary through this amazing country.  Indeed, I was there with my partner for a friend’s wedding in the nearby Kakheti wine region.  However, Tbilisi is an excellent destination in its own right and I cannot recommend it enough.

FAQs: Things to know before arriving in Tbilisi, Georgia

It’s safe, beautiful, fun, friendly, full of things to do, but chances are you might have a few questions…

What is the currency in Georgia?

The Georgian Lari (GEL) is the official currency, but you cannot buy this outside of the country. Vistors need to acquire cash at ATMs or exchanges upon arrival. However, cards are readily accepted. The only time we needed cash was at our first accommodation, to buy from street vendors and for tipping a tour guide. At the time of writing, the conversion rate is approximately 3.5 GEL to 1 GBP, which leads to my next point…

Do you get good value for money in Tbilisi, Georgia?

Yes. There are good conversion rates as well as budget-friendly prices for accommodation, restaurants, bars and activities. To give you an idea, on our first evening, a shared meal for four at a traditional Georgian restaurant with local wine cost us around 200 GEL (55GBP or £13.75 per person).

What’s the weather like in Tbilisi?

Georgia experiences proper seasons – snow in winter, burning sun in summer. Summer is oppressively hot and perhaps not the best time to visit, with temperatures regularly over 35C. But that said, we went in the height of summer and even as pale little Scots, we survived thanks to air-con, handheld fans, treelined streets and readily available water fountains.  Generally, the shoulder seasons (spring and autumn) are the best times of year to visit, when Tbilisi is warm and sunny.

What should I wear in Tbilisi?

This depends more on weather and your activities more than any local custom. In warmer months you’ll fit in just fine wearing shorts, sandals and a t-shirt. If you visit one of the many Orthodox Christian churches, however, you will be expected to cover shoulders and knees. Women must also cover their hair, although most churches do have scarves you can borrow.

Can I drink the tap water in Tbilisi?

Yes, the tap water is drinkable and generally tastes pretty decent (trust me, that’s high praise from a Scottish person!) and water fountains are readily available in many local spaces. Georgia also has some famous bottled spring and mineral water which is common and cheap.

What’s the time difference in Tbilisi, Georgia?

Georgia is three hours ahead of the UK, but while there, you should change your body clock to ‘Georgia time’ – specifically, if you thought everyone would be up early to avoid the day time heat, you’d be wrong! People here love a lie-in; most businesses open from 11am and stay open later, eg. restaurants will be open until 1am, Holy Trinity church is open until 10pm.

Is Georgia in the EU?

No, at the time of writing, Georgia is outside of the European Economic Area, but you will see EU flags adorning many buildings, and there are regular anti-government, pro-EU protests after the Georgia Dream Party paused applications to join the EU. Be wary of speaking to locals about this as they make not wish to talk, and protesters run the risk of fines and even jail time.

What is Tbilisi airport like and how do I get into the city?

Tbilisi airport is fairly small (1 terminal, 7 gates) but busy and easy to navigate. Avoid taxis! We were warned about the taxi drivers who would target us with much bigger fares. This was good advice, as the only time we felt Georgians were ever pushy or trying to sell us anything, they were taxi drivers.

We used the Bolt app to get to our accommodation in the Old Town – a journey of about 30 mins costing 28GEL (£7.72). There is also bus 337 outside the arrivals hall which runs every twenty minutes from 7am-11pm for only 1 GEL (buy a ticket with contactless payment when you’re on board) and about 1 hour to Tbilisi centre. The airport has good, free Wifi, but this drops as soon as you exit. Get an e-sim ahead of time (we like Airalo), or there are multiple booths at which you can purchase a sim on arrival.

How do I get around Tbilisi?

Avoid taxis – as mentioned before, taxi drivers can be very pushy and, sadly, try to scam innocent tourists. Tbilisi is full of hills, cobbles and uneven footing. You’ll easily rack up a hefty step count and work up a sweat, perhaps even twisting an ankle or two, but it is a lovely city to wander around. Apps like Bolt and YadexGo and GoTrip are readily available and excellent value. We used Bolt regularly throughout our visit. It is basically an Uber alternative. Just a warning though: the drivers and road etiquette in Georgia is a bit bonkers: they drive fast, squeeze through the smallest spaces, overtake into oncoming traffic, slam brakes, run reds… It’s an experience!

Do they speak English in Georgia?

English is widely spoken in the tourist areas, but I always think it’s useful to learn a couple of words, and you’ll hear these ones plenty:

Hello: Gamarjoba

Thank you: Madloba

Is it safe in Tbilisi, Georgia?

Yes. As with anywhere, use common sense, but it is a very safe city for tourists and women to move about freely. The only time we were warned about potential scammers was the taxi drivers, as mentioned. The wine and cha cha are also arguably quite dangerous as they are just so darn drinkable!

What’s the food like in Tbilisi?

Expect lots of salty cheese, bread, barbequed meats and delicious fresh fruit and veg. It’s quite a communal eating culture, almost like tapas or mezze, so order several plates for the table to share.

Must try food and drinks:

Wine!

Georgia is the world’s oldest wine-producing country. Many shops have free tastings available and you can buy home-grown and unlabelled bottles in many restaurants. And don’t be surprised if you see local children sharing a drink: the age to buy alcohol is 18, but families include their children in celebrations and wine drinking from an early age. Red, white, and amber all readily available.

Cha cha!

Sometimes called Georgian ‘brandy’, ‘grape vodka’ or ‘grappa’, cha cha is the local spirit which comes in many flavours. People distil their own, and be warned: it is STRONG! I’m talking upwards of 50%!

Homemade lemonade

Amazing on a hot day, this isn’t freshly squeezed lemons; it’s more like a sweet fizzy drink with the restaurant’s choice of fruit in it. Some will offer berries, or citrus and mint for example.

Kinkhali

Delicious dumplings! You can order different stuffings and sauces, but the main thing to remember is to eat them with your fingers! Grab the top nub with thumb and pointer, take a bite, slurp the inside juices then eat the rest.

Khachapuri

Georgian bread. Comes in a variety of shapes, sizes, flavours. For example, our favourite, khachapuri adjari contains melted cheese, and egg yolk and butter which you stir in and then tear the ‘crust’ to dip in and eat.

Fresh fruit and veg

Fresh fruit is readily available and oh-so delicious. There are street vendors who charge quite a lot for a cup of berries or watermelon, so keep an eye out instead for local grocers. One of our favourite dishes in restaurants was sometimes called a Georgian salad: a simple tomato and cucumber salad with walnut dressing.

BBQ

Most restaurants have a variety of grilled meats available, sometimes with veggies like potato or aubergine. Our favourite was Ojakhuri, a pork and potato dish. Also, something we noticed, everything came with a hefty garnish of red onion.

 

Things to do in Tbilisi, Georgia? Your ultimate itinerary for 3 days in Tbilisi:

First, a brief overview then a more in-depth break-down. And I’ve included other optional activities below that we were recommended, but didn’t get the chance to try ourselves. Also, it’s worth noting that this itinerary really focusses on the Old Town area of the city so I do suggest trying to find accommodation in that area.   However, there are many other excellent areas to explore if time permits.

And remember ‘Georgia time’? Lie in and start your days a little later like the locals do! Or like we did, get up early to walk or run around the beautiful, quiet streets before everyone else. Then, wrap up your days with a delicious Georgian meal with wine, perhaps even accompanied by traditional music and dance. I’ve included some recommendations of restaurants we tried and would recommend.

Itinerary overview

Day 1:

Walk around Old Town / Walking tour

Botanical gardens

Day 2:

Sulphur bath

Markets

Day 3:

Museums

Holy Trinity church

Detailed Itinerary

Day 1:

Walk around the Old Town 

The Old Town is stunning and every corner very Instagram-able. We started our time in Tbilisi literally just wandering around to stumble on cafes, bars, crumbling balconies, renovations, secret courtyards, and especially the street art which is vibrant and turns the area into a living exhibition. I particularly liked a local artist’s work (GOSHA ART) we came across several times, depicting cats stealing khinkali, or mice breaking into safes.

Take a guided walking Tour

After our little walkabout, we joined a free walking tour. I’d really recommend a walking tour of Tbilisi simply because it is very easy to walk past and never know you’ve missed interesting sights like the puppet theatre with the tiniest clock or the church where Stalin was married.

Tbilisi has such an interesting history, it’s great to learn from and ask questions of a local guide. We found a free* tour on GuruWalk which included lots of information, was well paced and gave us a good intro to Tbilisi. We met at 10:30 and went until approx. 2pm. There were some short stops where we could drink from a fountain or buy a snack from the bakery – these breaks were needed on such a hot day!

*while it says ‘free’, be aware that you have to pay for the cable car fare, any drinks or snacks, and importantly, to tip your guide.

Our tour guide took us to many places including to a hidden historical bakery, Orthodox Churches and explained the etiquette (cover shoulders, knees and women’s hair – scarves available to borrow on entry), to a free wine tasting, across The Peace Bridge and up the Cable Car (3 GEL pp) to the Mother of Georgia statue overlooking the city. Some tours also include a boat ride on the Kura River.

Mother of Georgia is an excellent viewpoint over the city on Sololaki Hill. Built in the 1950s, she stands 20 metres tall, her aluminium cladding glinting silver in the sun, with wine in her left hand to welcome friends, and a sword in her right hand to fend off enemies – the perfect host and mother!

Visit the Botanical gardens

As our tour ended up at the Moher of Georgia viewpoint, we decided to walk the many steps back down, stopping for an ice cream from a vendor en route. We would have been interested to explore the Narikala Fortress at the hilltop but it was temporarily closed for renovations during our visit. However, the National Botanical Garden of Georgia is nearby, with a couple of entrances to choose from. Entry is 4 GEL and it is open from 9am to 8pm (6pm in winter). It dates back approximately three centuries, originally founded as the fortress gardens.

At first we didn’t realise how big and lush the garden is. It nestled between the hills at the foot of the fortress behind Old Town Tbilisi. I could easily spend a couple of hours wandering the trails here, discovering the streams, Japanese garden, wide variety of plants and the stunning waterfall at its heart. But I won’t lie, my Scottish body was melting in the heat and I was ready to call it a day!

Dinner suggestion: Kneine restaurant. I was ready to rest my feet by then and my friend recommended this place, perfect as it’s near the gardens too. This traditional Georgian restaurant is good value, delicious, family-owned. In fact the owner is known to take visitors on ‘excursions’ – tours around the restaurant to point out pictures and historical objects. For a drink afterwards we also went to Zazanova – a fun spot with good vibes, delicious house amber wine and live music.

Day 2:

Take a Sulphur bath

Day one was a big day so we decided to treat ourselves while also experiencing an interesting Tbilisi tradition: a sulphur bath!

Choosing the right bath house

It might seem the opposite to what you’d want on a hot day, but this was amazing! There are several bath houses around; we had even walked past these bubble-like buildings the previous day without realising what was within!

There are several to choose from, ranging in price and aesthetic, and after some research we landed on Gulo’s Bathhouse and called them up to book an hour in a private bath. We were lucky they had space that day as normally they book up well in advance. There are also public baths which are cheap, segregated by gender and yes, you’re expected to be naked. Having spent time in Japan, this didn’t phase me, but Adam and I decided it would be more fun to enjoy it together, rather than separately with strangers in different pools.

The sulphur bath experience

We arrived about 15 minutes early and they let us in early, letting us know they were starting the clock and would knock ten minutes before the end. They also offered us extras like towels, tea and a body scrub called a ‘kise’. We declined all because we had brought our own towels and water bottles. I have far too sensitive skin to want it scrubbing down! There was a changing space with sofas and bathroom, and next door was the bathing area, with gorgeous marble and mosaic. There is both a hot bath and a cold plunge pool. It is a sulphur bath so there is a faint eggy smell, but it’s not too distracting or unpleasant.

A quick shower under these pipes and we stepped into the hot bath. And it is HOT! We had to ease ourselves in slowly before getting out a few minutes later to immerse ourselves in the cold plunge. Heaven! We basically repeated this process over and over, having a laugh and a chat, taking pictures where we tried not to show too much (can’t have a nip slip on Instagram!) until our time was nearly up and we had to go get our kit back on.

How much does a sulphur bath cost in Tbilisi?

We found an hour the perfect amount of time and it cost 150GEL. We were surprised to find out the price is for the room, not per person. Our room could hold up to 6 people and it would cost the same. Also, in the private room, you don’t have to go naked – unless you want to. 😉

Wander around the markets

After the sulphur bath we were feeling refreshed and somehow like we could deal with the hot Georgian sun better now. We decided to wander through some street markets. In particular, we were recommended the Dry Bridge flea market which is open every day 11-6.

Perfect for picking up some local souvenirs and knick-knacks, it is full of local vendors selling everything, from jewellery to art to antiques. Now, Adam and I are travelling light and long-term; we don’t really have the space to be picking up souvenirs. But that doesn’t mean we can’t look, right? The markets are a nice vibe, and good to just look around and interact with locals.

We did end up treating ourselves at a fruit stall to some watermelon. Here we had one of our favourite interactions so far when the old man started feeding me watermelon by hand and telling off Adam for stealing it from me! This was all in full-language-barrier mode, by the way.

Then he made an odd gesture, sort of pinching his neck. We realised he meant what we might call ‘a nip’!  He disappeared momentarily and came back with a plastic Coca Cola bottle filled with his homemade cha cha and some shot glasses. So slainte, or gaumar jos, as they say in Georgia!

Dinner suggestion: We met some friends for a delicious and entertaining dinner at Margalita restaurant, just along Rustaveli Ave. We ordered a variety of dishes for the table to share (too much, probably!) including a mixed BBQ platter, Georgian salads, khachpuri adjaruli… And amber wine just kept coming! But what makes this restaurant special is the live music from piano, guitars and harmonising singers. It was very lively and fun.

Day 3:

Visit some of the Museums and Art Galleries in Tbilisi

Tbilisi has several interesting museums, which are particularly good on a rainy – or in our case – a blisteringly-hot-and-we-wanted-aircon-day! Most of them are on the Rustaveli Avenue, along from Freedom Square. They are mostly closed on a Monday and open Tues-Sun from 11am to 7pm – again, Georgia time!

We chose the National Museum (40GEL) and the Gallery of Fine Arts (30GEL). But there are many others to choose from, eg. the wine museum, Stalin’s printing press, auto museum…

The National Museum

We easily spent a couple of hours at the National Museum which has a particularly interesting permanent exhibit on the top floor dedicated to the Soviet occupation – perfect for a little more background knowledge if you’re like me and your Soviet historical knowledge is somewhat lacking.

The basement level contains the ‘Treasury of Georgia’ and was full of gold coins and jewellery. Did you know people used to pan the river in Tbilisi for gold? As a result, there’s a real treasure trove of beautiful and historical golden artefacts.

The main floor contains an interesting exploration through ancient human history – we’ve recently been listening to Sapiens on Audiobook, so the skulls lined up in order of the historical periods is fascinating alongside the ancient tools and really brought our new knowledge to life.

The Gallery of Fine Arts

The Gallery of Fine Arts is just a couple of blocks along from the National Museum. It is a privately owned collection of modern art in the most stunning building. The art is varied and thought provoking – I particularly liked the pieces which responded to the Soviet Occupation.

Adam’s favourite part though was watching me navigate the glass stairs and floors – an anxiety I never realised I suffered before! I mean, I’m sure the glass is reinforced and would hold many times my weight, but my imagination led me to see myself crashing down through several floors, so there I was clinging to the banister and taking tiny steps trying not to look down!

Explore the Holy Trinity Cathedral

Tbilisi has many churches you can visit for free, but you really can’t miss the golden roof of Holy Trinity glinting in the sun over the river. Constructed between 1995 and 2004, it may not have the glorious history of other holy sites, but it is one of the largest religious buildings in the world by area.

It is free to enter and is open from 7am to 9pm. Remember to be respectful of worshippers, and to cover shoulders, knees and women’s hair. There are scarves available at each entrance.

We climbed up the hill just as the sun was beginning to set and caught the stunning sight of the Cathedral looming over the many steps leading towards it just as the orange glow of sunset was hitting. We actually returned to the viewpoint again later after we’d had our dinner in order to see it lit up against the night sky.

Dinner recommendation: Vakhtanguri’s Chebureki. This is the perfect spot after visiting Holy Trinity Cathedral as on the map, the restaurant is only a few streets beyond. However, I’ll warn you the hill had us sweating and earning our dinner! This was a delicious traditional Georgian restaurant specialising in chebureki (like a fried dumpling, reminiscent of empanadas) and khinkali dumplings. We chose a variety of fillings and sharing multiple plates before heading back down the hill with our full bellies.

Alternative suggestions for things to do in Tbilisi

So that brings me to the end of the in-depth itinerary! Obviously, it’s just a suggestion based on my experience so feel free to alter and add. For example, here are a few alternative options which were recommended to us.  I would definitely like to take these up on a return visit to Tbilisi:

• Cooking class – learn how to make khinkali and khachapuri!
• Lisi or Turtle lake – an easy bus ride to the city’s outskirts for a bike ride or swim.
• Nutsubidze Skybridge – arrange a Bolt or bus about 10km from Tbilisi centre to this old apartment complex if you are interested in the Soviet era and Brutalist architecture.
• There are also several day trips available to other locations outside of Tbilisi.  One could easily spend a day touring and tasting in the khaketi wine region, or even spend a few hours hopping over the border to Armenia.

There is so much to do in Tbilisi and the surrounding area! It really is worth visiting and experiencing for yourself. Enjoy!

 

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