Google search ‘Sri Lanka’ and among the pictures of beautiful beaches and the famous Nine Arch Bridge, you will likely also see a picture of Sigiriya, or as it’s also known: Lion Rock. (I shall use Sigiriya and Lion Rock interchangeably throughout this post.) This UNESCO World Heritage Site is one of the country’s most famous and important landmarks. It is sometimes even referred to as the unofficial eighth wonder of the world. When we were planning our visit, however, we kept debating: is Lion Rock worth the $35 entry fee? Is it worth climbing 1200 steps to see a rock fortress? On that note, can I even climb that many steps? To find out the answers to these questions, read on!
A Brief History of Lion Rock (Sigiriya)
First of all, Lion Rock is not just a rock. Yes, it is a massive and stunning granite rock which began its life as a volcanic plug and now rises 180m out of the surrounding jungle, seen for miles around.There is evidence of prehistoric settlements in the area from as far back as 3000 BCE and then a Buddhist settlement from 4 BCE. However, sitting atop this rock today are the remains of a huge fortress built in the 5th century AD. And the story of that fortress is a little reminiscent of a Shakespearean tragedy…
Kashyapa was the illegitimate son of the King Dhatusena and one of his consorts. In 477AD,
Kashyapa killed his father by walling him up alive. Kashyapa then usurped the throne from the rightful heir, his half-brother, Moggallana. Moggallana escaped to India but vowed to return and reclaim his birthright. Kashyapa feared this and so constructed his pleasure palace and military stronghold, Lion Rock – named for the huge stone lion guarding the staircase part way up. All that is left today are its giant paws.
Nearly 20 years later in 495AD, Moggallana returned and declared war. During battle, Kashyapa’s army deserted him and so he committed suicide by falling on his sword.
The story does have some other interpretations, but that’s the most dramatic one and therefore my favourite.
After that it was used as a Buddhist monastery until the 14th century and then the jungle reclaimed the area. It was only known to locals until a British soldier stumbled upon it in the 1830s. From then, it drew attention from archaeologists and gained UNESCO status in 1982. Over a million people visit Sigiriya every year.
Visiting Lion Rock (Sigiriya)
How do I get to Sigiriya, Lion Rock?
Sigiriya is in the centre of Sri Lanka, with the nearest major hub being Dambulla. There are local buses running regularly and cheaply. We decided to share a taxi from Kandy and recommend staying in or near Dambulla, Kimbissa or Sigiriya itself. We chose to stay in Sigiriya, only a walk away from the entrance to the rock via the beautiful water gardens which surround it. From the other spots, you can easily catch a tuktuk to the car park.
What should I wear to visit Sigiriya?
Sigiriya has not been a monastery for centuries so one is not expected to dress as modestly as visiting
a Buddhist site. However, it is important to dress appropriately for the physical activity. Sturdy and comfortable shoes – trainers are ideal – are essential. Clothing you can move easily in and that you don’t mind getting sweaty is also a must. I don’t really recommend a skirt or dress as it can be windy up there and you don’t want to be
flashing the people climbing the stairs below you 😉 That said, we hiked in a dress and kilt because it was laundry day and that was literally all we had. We made it up the rock just fine, and I think we looked pretty fierce!
How much are tickets for Sigiriaya and where do I buy them?
One ticket costs $35 (10,710 Sri Lankan Rupees) at the time of writing. There are discounted rates for children and citizens of other South Asian countries. There is a ticket office on the right as you walk towards the rock from the carpark, but foreigners must buy tickets inside the museum itself. The museum is further to the right past the
ticket office. There is another entry booth to the site where officials check your ticket so make sure you buy it beforehand in the museum. They accept card – although not the day we were there, so cash is recommended.
Is it worth the $35 to visit Lion Rock?
In my opinion, yes, it is worth visiting Lion Rock (Sigiriya). I admit that the fee is quite expensive when one compares it to the rest of Sri Lanka. If you are backpacking on a budget as we were, you might not want to part with your money, but think about it in comparison with costs to visit other famous UNESCO sites around the world. Also, as I said before: it’s not just a rock. The ticket also includes admission to the museum, as well as entry to the ruins and beautiful grounds. Most importantly, it is a unique experience climbing those steps up and up to the top. And from the summit, there are the most amazing views.
Some people will tell you the hike up nearby and cheaper Pidurangela Rock is better, and that you can see Lion Rock from there. At 1000 Sri Lankan Rupees it’s definitely kinder to the budget, but that also means it is far busier, especially at sunrise when everyone wants to go. And sure, you can see Lion Rock from there, but it’s at a distance, and Lion Rock is still taller. It would also mean missing out on the ruins – and being able to pat yourself on the back for a job well done tackling your fear of heights on those stairs!
When is the best time to visit Sigiriya?
It is hot and sunny all year in Sri Lanka, but the dry season is between December to April. (Although
we went in September.) Early morning or late afternoon are the best times of day to visit. (We aimed for sunset.)
Unless you are really fit and fast, you’ll not make it to the top for sunrise (try the nearby Pidurangela for sunrise). I suggest aiming for early morning or sunset to avoid the crowds and the heat.
Opening times:
Sigiriya is open from 5:30am to 6pm (ish). The ticket office closes at 5pm and attendants start to usher people out of the main site by 6pm. I suggest trying to head down before it gets too dark anyway as the staircase is quite challenging.
If you are aiming for sunset, I suggest buying tickets with plenty of time to spare. This is because there is a lot more to explore than just the rock itself. As I explained above, make sure to explore the museum (although skip the disappointing first floor), and explore the gardens and caves at the foot of the rock before starting the hike up. Also, it’s worth noting that they close off the mirror wall and frescos when it gets too late. As a method of crowd control, these must-sees are roped off on the ascent and visitors are meant to visit them on the descent. (Or you could be a little sneaky and duck the rope to see them first. Not that I would ever advocate rope ducking…)
Don’t skip the museum:
My advice is not to skip the museum when visiting Sigiriya. The inside is a camera-free zone, but even the outside of the building is quite impressive – a brutalist concrete structure but woven with lush green plant
life and water features. It was undergoing some renovation while we were there but the aircon was still very much appreciated! The opening exhibition floor is quite underwhelming – only a bunch of old pictures on the wall. However, the rest of the museum is much better with archaeological finds, a scale aerial model of the site, recreation of the frescos, and models of old weaponry.
Take some time exploring the grounds:
Again, you shouldn’t skip these either. If you enter the complex from the Sigiriya direction like we did, you can walk for free along the huge outer moat which surrounds the rock until you see the ticket check booth, but you’ll have to get your ticket before exploring further.
The site is considered one of the most important and impressive examples of urban planning in the first millennium. It interweaves symmetrical pathways and ponds with natural stone boulders and caves you can explore before venturing up the rock. There’s even the remnants of an ancient latrine! There are some excellent spots to take pictures from ground level before you take on the stairs.
How long does it take to visit Lion Rock, Sigiriya?
Expect to spend up to three hours from ticket purchase, exploring, hiking, taking pictures, etc. Obviously, this depends on your fitness, how many stops you make and crowds. The hike to the top took me about 45 minutes. I can’t say I’m super fit, but I was moving at a pretty relaxed pace and stopping to take pictures. I’ll admit my pace was quicker on the last leg of the climb as my fear of heights pushed me to get the heck off that metal staircase!
We spent another 45 minutes wandering around the ruins at the top and taking pictures. Then it took about 25 minutes to go down the stairs.
How many steps are there to the top of Lion Rock?
Approximately 1200.
Trust me, it’s not so bad. And there are a couple of plateaus on the way up to stop and rest. The humidity and heat make it harder, which is why you want to choose your timing wisely and bring plenty of water and suncream, etc.
However, I will put a warning here for people who, like me, are a liiiiiittle scared of heights. The hike is absolutely no bother – until the final stretch when you pass through the lion’s paws.
The only way up is to walk up a metal staircase bolted into the side of the rock. It feels very precarious and I did not like this part. I would have liked it even less had it been windy, or if there had been more people on it.
I kept a hand tightly on the rail the whole way, reminded myself that millions of people did this every year and if the stray dogs can do it (yes, there are even strays on the rock!), then so can I. And I did!
What is it like at the top of Sigiriya?
After what felt like risking my life on the stairs to reach the top, I was a little underwhelmed by what I saw when I made it. But only for a moment. My initial view of the ruins just seemed like a few different brick levels with other tourists clambering up to take selfies. Then I saw the views of the surrounding countryside. They are stunning!
Lion Rock is the tallest viewpoint for miles and is surrounded by lush green jungle. On the hot and humid day, the views were hazy, but as the sun began to set, the sky took on the most beautiful orange and pink hues.
Somewhere in the distance we heard an elephant trumpet, and somehow, even on the top of the rock, the sound of a famous bakery tuktuk playing Fur Elise also drifted up to us ( – a few days in Sri Lanka and you will realise there is no escape from this tune!)
Make sure to explore the top of Sigiriya. Many tourists are content with their summit selfies and immediately turn around and descend. Don’t do this! There are several different levels to the ruins with more stairs between them. Although the buildings are long gone, wander through and imagine what it might have looked like in its prime. A huge pond takes up a middle section and still contains fresh water collected when it rains. There are even more beautiful viewpoints and far less busy viewpoints to take in. If you have ventured up Lion Rock for the sunset, it is truly stunning and well worth the climb.
Another cautionary note here, however: I advise you to begin your descent before it’s actually dark. You now have all the stairs to contend with, but in reverse!
The Mirror Wall
As mentioned previously, for crowd control, the frescos and mirror wall are roped off on the way up, and visitors are meant to visit them on the descent. However, if you stay too late, for sunset for example, these will also be closed on the way down. This means that one needs to plan timings carefully with this in mind.
The mirror wall is not a shining silver, who’s-the-fairest-of-them-all kind of mirror you can check your hair in. It is brick covered in white plaster that was said to be so reflective the king could see himself as he walked alongside it. However, now it is covered in ancient poetry scribbled by visitors between the 8th and 10th centuries. There are approximately 1500 poems on the wall written by a variety of people who were mostly inspired by the women depicted in the frescos.
(I don’t think I should have to say this, but you are not allowed to add your own graffiti to this wall, even if it is poetic!)
After the mirror wall, there is a metal spiral staircase bolted to the rockface – another challenge which might make those of us sensitive to heights a little uneasy! Visitors are not allowed to take any pictures in these
sections, and there are stories of tourists having their cameras confiscated by the eagle-eyed guards. This means, of course, that I have no pictures to share with you!
The Frescoes
The frescos were originally said to cover the entire western face of the Lion Rock, and depict 500 semi-naked ladies. Most of those images are now lost to history and there are fears they are fading further still. There is speculation as to who the ladies are, whether they were concubines of the king, servants, or taking part in religious ceremonies. Interestingly, you can also see the effects of a vandalism incident from 1967 in which an unknown vandal splashed green paint over the images. A year long effort to restore the paintings was undertaken but the damage is still noticeable.
Agian, unforunately, photography is not allowed in this area.
A note on the wildlife: monkeys, wasps, dogs, elephants… oh my!
There are signs on the way up warning you not to feed the monkeys and to be quiet because of the wasps. You definitely want to follow this advice! There have been attacks from both creatures recently and I didn’t feel like messing with the wasps that made such massive nests on the side of the rock. If there is an attack, they’ll close the rock and there are no refunds.
There are stray dogs all over Sri Lanka and Lion Rock is no exception. They are generally friendly and there is a government initiative to vaccinate strays. Still – be careful.
Outside the Sigiriya site, we saw a couple of places selling elephant rides. I know locals have to make a living somehow, but please don’t contribute to the subjugation of these animals by riding them along the road while they’re led by a man with a big bull hook.
So… a final word on visiting Lion Rock in Sigiriya
Is it worth visiting Sigiriya? Yes. You could easily spend that much money on a few drinks at home and not leave with such unique memories and photos. Strap on your trainers, fill up your water bottle, lather on the SPF, make sure your phone/camera is charged, and get ready for those stairs! (Kilt optional.)
Other posts about World Heritage Sites
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I have always made a point of never accepting guest posts on AbFabTravels, but I have just made an exception! My daughter Beth is currently on a sabbatical and travelling the world. She has agreed to contribute a few articles, giving a young person’s perspective and insights into a different way of travelling. She is a fantastic writer so please check out her posts.
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